Laverton is the kind of outback town you might expect at the end of an epic desert road trip, not at the start of one. Marooned on the edge of Australia's two largest deserts – the Victoria and the Great Sandy – Laverton felt like the last outpost of frontier civilisation, a 12-hour drive from Perth, five hours from already-remote Kalgoorlie.
Whenever a road train rumbled through town, Laverton rouses into life. Otherwise, it is eerily, gloriously quiet. Tarmac roads disappear beneath the red sand long before they reach the town's outskirts. When the wind picks up, the sand turns to dust and blankets the town with a fine, coppery sheen. After the dust settles, when darkness falls, the stars come out, more stars than seem possible.
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